Paul:
I have purchased the RX8 water pump block from Jeff D. (pic attached)
but cannot find the exact radiator cap bung (o-ring sealed) that will
fit it.
Do you know exact supplier or part #?
Thanks and regards,
cozyflyr
I can't find it either. I looked recently. Apparently the company
went out of biz.
Did you check speedwaymotors.com
<http://speedwaymotors.com> ?
They have a small weld on that my ace tig welder could weld but there
would be a charge.
They have a bolt on that might fit if turned down.
If you find a larger one I will turn it down on my lathe no charge.
Randy, we need to redesign this part.
Paul Lamar
Question The photo here with this pump is specially made for
improving cooling efficiency? If so who is making it? I'm
Interested.
For the cap bung, it might be a metric one, that maybe the reason you
don't find it. If you can give to me some measurements, then, I can
look for it as in Europe metric is common....
Pascal
I believe the pressure caps are standardized through out the world.
I think Randy in Colorado will be making those in the future. It is
an adapter to the RX8
water pump that is designed to clear the p-port slide throttle.
Here are some more
pictures and 3D's. The radiator works best on the cool side of the
engine so this gets
the coolant going in the right direction. The muffler shown in
these 3D's is obsolete
as we have come up with a much better solution.
Here is Neal Ungars experience with the install.
Quote.
To those as stupid as myself,
I have the renesis
motor with Jeff
Doddridge’s water block to replace the original manifold. It
fitted beautifully
but once I filled the coolant I noticed a slight leak at the
bottom. Cursing myself
for having not fitted it properly I removed it (along with the
slide throttle and
pipes, an hours work) to find what seemed not enough clearance
between the block and
a washer. I cleaned everything up, filed more clearance between
the block and the
surrounds, refitted the water manifold, and no leak, Eureka!! A
few days later I
noticed a slight water leak down the front of the motor, and next
day the same water
leak at the bottom of the manifold once again. This was with no
pressure in the
system at all, so it could not go “as is”. Once again I removed
everything and again
could not see anything wrong, clearances were not the problem. I
now suspected the
welds on the manifold block. Much filing and probing with a needle
revealed no
possible hole in the weld. Then it finally dawned, I am totally
stupid!!
When I had put the manifold on both times, I had been very
economical with the
gasket putty so as to not have too much squeezed out into the water
channels.
Therefore I simply applied the gasket goo to the surrounds of the
manifold holes.
Lovely job I did too. What I forgot however was that Jeff Has put
2 internal
mounting bolts to hold the manifold onto the engine block, again
nicely done. In my
effort to minimise the gasket goo, I omitted to surround both bolt
holes with gasket
maker. That allowed the coolant to seep down the bolt holes and
out. It was
impossible to pick up the source of the leak being so slow. Well I
fixed it!
There is probably so much RTV on the join now that I have probably
blocked both
manifold holes! Actually all I did was to put a smear around the
head of both
internal cap screws so that the coolant is prevented from passing
the head of the
screw. Why did I not pick that in the first place?? Hopefully it
will prevent
someone else from getting into a temper.
Neil. Unger
end quote.
Paul Lamar
If it is leaking out bolt threads that go into the coolant system such
as the p-port seal blocks, use copper or aluminum washers under the bolt
threads. The bolt hole around the bolt can fill up with coolant or if
going into an oil area the oil will fill it but can not make it out
under the bolt head. You may have to search for a source as not all part
stores stock them, but should be able to bring them in.
Dale Davies
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