Paul:
I have purchased the RX8 water pump block from Jeff D. (pic
attached) but cannot find the exact radiator cap bung (o-ring sealed)
that will fit it.
Do you know exact supplier or part #?
Thanks and regards,
cozyflyr
I can't find it either. I looked recently. Apparently the company
went out of biz.
Did you check speedwaymotors.com <
http://speedwaymotors.com ?
They have a small weld on that my ace tig welder could weld but
there would be a charge.
They have a bolt on that might fit if turned down.
If you find a larger one I will turn it down on my lathe no charge.
Randy, we need to redesign this part.
Paul Lamar
Question The photo here with this pump is specially made for
improving cooling efficiency? If so who is making it? I'm
Interested.
For the cap bung, it might be a metric one, that maybe the reason
you don't find it. If you can give to me some measurements, then, I
can look for it as in Europe metric is common....
Pascal
I believe the pressure caps are standardized through out the world.
I think Randy in Colorado will be making those in the future. It is
an adapter to the RX8 water pump that is designed to clear the p-port
slide throttle. Here are some more pictures and 3D's. The radiator
works best on the cool side of the engine so this gets the coolant
going in the right direction. The muffler shown in these 3D's is
obsolete as we have come up with a much better solution.
Here is Neal Ungars experience with the install.
Quote.
To those as stupid as myself, I have the renesis motor with Jeff
Doddridge’s water block to replace the original manifold. It
fitted beautifully but once I filled the coolant I noticed a slight
leak at the bottom. Cursing myself for having not fitted it properly
I removed it (along with the slide throttle and pipes, an hours work)
to find what seemed not enough clearance between the block and a
washer. I cleaned everything up, filed more clearance between the
block and the surrounds, refitted the water manifold, and no leak,
Eureka!! A few days later I noticed a slight water leak down the
front of the motor, and next day the same water leak at the bottom of
the manifold once again. This was with no pressure in the system at
all, so it could not go “as is”. Once again I removed everything and
again could not see anything wrong, clearances were not the problem.
I now suspected the welds on the manifold block. Much filing and
probing with a needle revealed no possible hole in the weld.Then it
finally dawned, I am totally stupid!!
When I had put the manifold on both times, I had been very economical
with the gasket putty so as to not have too much squeezed out into
the water channels. Therefore I simply applied the gasket goo to the
surrounds of the manifold holes. Lovely job I did too. What I forgot
however was that Jeff Has put 2 internal mounting bolts to hold the
manifold onto the engine block, again nicely done. In my effort to
minimise the gasket goo, I omitted to surround both bolt holes with
gasket maker. That allowed the coolant to seep down the bolt holes
and out. It was impossible to pick up the source of the leak being so
slow.Well I fixed it! There is probably so much RTV on the join now
that I have probably blocked both manifold holes! Actually all I did
was to put a smear around the head of both internal cap screws so
that the coolant is prevented from passing the head of the screw.
Why did I not pick that in the first place?? Hopefully it will
prevent someone else from getting into a temper.
Neil. Unger
end quote.
Paul Lamar
I had a similar experience. It was finally fixed when I decided to
go with a factory metal thermostat housing gasket... problem solved.
My recommendation to all who use this adapter block is to also use a
new factory gasket.
It will save you much aggravation.
Mark S.
This one fit mine:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261598244821?item=261598244821&viewitem=&vxp=mtr
It was a tight fit, required heating the block and chilling the
bung.
Ken Aron
That's it.
Paul Lamar
Go here to select a pressure cap to suit your needs.
http://www.fillernecksupply.com/billet-aluminum-radiator-filler-neck-2-23-56mm-diameter/
Hey Paul,
What is the recommended cooling system operating pressure to use with
rotary engines?
Mark LaPierre
Put a 30 psi pressure cap on it.
Paul Lamar in Germany
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