Paul, just curious if I might be able to speak with you regarding the
powersports aviation re215 rotary engine? Respectively, Scott
ingoldsby
Can we do it by email?
Paul Lamar
Sure, I just wanted to know your thoughts on the fwf package? I have
aquired a new one and just looking for any advice, do and don't s etc
pertaining to this package. I am very intrigued by what I have read
so far.
Scott ingoldsby
Send us some pictures Scott and I will try to identify the engine.
Paul Lamar
I do know that it is the powersports aviation re 215 rotary engine.
Just not much info on them out there...
Scott ingoldsby
>From whom did you buy it from? Did you buy the air plane shown in the
pictures as well? If so the cooling system shown did not ever work
well. It violated K&W rules as outlined in my book "How to Cool Your
Wankel". The book was written partially due to the trouble the new
Power Sport company had trying to cool it.
The 215 refers to the HP. It is lower than what we obtain today due
to two reason. The gear box ratio is lower limiting the RPM to 6200
and the intake tubes are smaller in diameter.
Here is a HP comparison chart.
We have a lot of info on this engine. It is a second Power Sport
company engine. Not built by Everett Hatch and Steve Beckham.
Paul Lamar
Paul, I bought the whole package. I wanted to use this engine as I
am quite impressed with it as well as it being a rare find. I will
order a copy of your book and would love to have input to a solution
to the cooling problem if there is one. I am looking forward to
getting the plane in the air, however I definitely want it trouble
free if possible
Scott ingoldsby
You can get the book from
http://www.rotarpower.com/
Move the rad under the engine or on the cool right side.
As in this Glastar 3D.
Paul Lamar
No I is a vans rv8 also has the James cowl with bottom duct.
Scott ingoldsby
Is this the cowl?
Do you own one of these air planes?
Paul Lamar
That appears to be it, my plane is not quite finished yet. I am new
to the vans and rotary world! I currently own a saratoga
Scott ingoldsby
Do you have the RV8 cowl or the James cowl?
Paul Lamar
It has the James cowl.
Scott ingoldsby
So it probably came from the crashed rotary powered RV8. The one that
ostensibly crashed due to a failed ignition switch.
It had the radiator mounted against the firewall. That goes against
logic and reason. The air must travel down under the engine and make
a 180 degree and go up through the core between core and firewall and
then forward.
The core "see's" all the heat radiated from the engine. Then the hot
air must flow down around the inlet duct and out the bottom of the
cowl.
A totally illogical arrangement.
It can be fixed by mounting the rad horizontally under the engine and
using a Kays & London wedge diffuser between the core and the hot
engine. This isolates the hot engine and exhaust from the rad. A one
degree F increase in cooling air temp results in a 1% reduction in
cooling.
BTW Please Magniflux the pinion gear in the gear box as it has failed
at least once.
Paul Lamar
Paul, the engine has been factory rebuilt to zero time, it could be
the one that was in the crash. Was the ignition problem corrected. do
you happen to know the serial number of the engine that was involved
in the crash? Scott ingoldsby
That is strange. The Mazda factory never sold P-port engines like
that. I find that hard to believe.
I was lead to believe it was an off the shelf after market ignition
switch. When the switch failed the engine stopped because there was
no 12 volts going to the engine.
No I do not have the serial number.
Paul Lamar
Hi Scott,
It is great to see someone taking on that project, and it seems you are
doing it for all the right reasons. I will add my 2 cents to your
discussion with Paul.
I absolutely agree with Paul that mounting the radiator up against the
firewall had a very low chance of success. However, that does not mean
that the rotary is difficult to cool. Once you provide plenty of air
to a
radiator of sufficient size then cooling comes quite easily. I
rarely get
my coolant temp was high as 180 (hot day climbouts), usually it is less
than 160. Cooling the oil in the rotary also deserves significant
attention because 1/3 of the rotary's heat rejection comes through the
oil. But again, it is not rocket science. An adequately sized
cooler with
adequate air flow and again it is no problem. Paul's book will help
define
'adequate'.
I also agree with Paul that an underslung radiator makes the most sense,
but many have had good success using the stock inlets for coolant and
installing the oil cooler underneath the engine.
I would not worry too much about radiated heat from the engine if you
system is otherwise adequate. My radiator is mounted under the engine
right below the hot oil pan (absorbing lots of radiant heat without
batting
an eye). Air flows up through the radiator, then helps cool the oil
in the
pan and everything else under the cowl that tends to get hot.
Welcome to the list and good luck!
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
http://RotaryRoster.net
Its not the oil pan. It is the blood red exhaust :-)
Paul Lamar
Dave, I appreciate the input from you as well, I will take all advice
from you senior
rotary engine guys as I am new to this type of engine. I am very
mechanically
inclined as well as have my own fiberglass production facility.
Modifying a cowl is no issue to Me if necessary
Has anyone ever wrapped the exhaust?
Works wonders on our can am sidexsides
Scott Ingoldsby
Definitely not recommended. The exhaust in a rotary is up to 1800 F .
This was the partial cause of exhaust pipe failure and a crash. These
pipes were wrapped.
You want to cool the exhaust.
Paul Lamar
I agree with Paul. I did wrap my exhaust for the first coupe hundred
hours. The regular wrap was only good for about 20 hrs or so. The
ultra high temp stuff would last maybe 100 hrs or so. Down sides
included faster than usual corrosion of the exhaust, particularly any
welds, makes visual inspection difficult, always falling off in little
bits making a mess, made it a hassle to do maintenance or modifications
in and around the exhaust. Upsides: none really. It did keep a lot of
the heat inside the exhaust, but that is what caused the corrosion. I
find it easier to use shielding, which is extremely effective at keeping
the heat away from hoses, engine mounts etc. yet still lets the exhaust
cool. Use SS within 1/2 inch of the exhaust or you use aluminium
shielding near the protected object.
Example: in this picture the piece of aluminium on the engine mount
above the exhaust. There are a couple pieces of scrap rubber hose
underneath creating a space. The zip ties seem to hold up just fine but
there is some safety wire there as a backup.
Dave Leonard
Has anybody tried getting the exhaust pipes high temp coated ? There are
two types, one is coated on the inside and is black, the other is coated
on the outside and is shiny (usually silver) these coatings work well
and most of the heat goes out the pipe.
Chris.
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