Paul, How plausible would it be to install a single rotor into a 1970 CJ5? Will any of the 4wheel drive Mazda truck bell-housing patterns bolt up to a rotary? Thanks. Randy Kaneer I don't know. You might have to make an adapter for the jeep bell house. Here is a bolt pattern dwg. There is a pilot shaft on the manual transmission input shaft that inserts into the fly wheel. The diameter of that is .75 inches. Then   all you need is a Jeep clutch disk that will fit a Mazda pressure plate. If too large in diameter it can be cut down. Why a one rotor? One rotors are a lot more expensive. Paul Lamar The jeep is a 1970 Kaiser cj5 with the 134 F head motor. Exhaust valves are in the block and the intake valves are in the head. This engine produced a gross output of 75 hp (56 kW; 76 PS) at 4000 rpm and 114 lb·ft (155 N·m) of torque at 2000 rpm. I do not want to overpower as the short wheelbase jeeps are not geared or designed for highway speeds. What would you recommend? Thanks Randy Kaneer A totally stock early 13B (1973 RX4) with 4 barrel carb is about 140   HP. If you don't need all that just put a stop on the throttle. Paul Lamar From what I've read the 5spd in the Mazda B2600 is basically a Turbo   II Rx-7 transmission with a different bell and input shaft (and ratios)....and since its bolt-on bell-housing, the most difficult thing to deal with would be the input shaft.. -Dan G. Randy, I would strongly suggest that you go over to Novak ( http://www.novak-adapt.com/) and do lots of reading and/or spend some time with them on the phone. I have a 1972 CJ-5, 3” longer than yours, and I understand why you’re thinking of a rotary because of the length issue.  I would guess you have the Borg-Warner T14 transmission like mine, and I’m pretty sure you have a standard Buick bell housing.  There’s room to pair a V6 with an AX15 transmission on your Jeep without shortening the rear driveshaft, or a V8 if you mount it forward or stick with the T14. Remember that the Buick V6 was an option for your Jeep, with the same driveline, and it put out 155 hp.  My 258 is also paired with the same driveline.  A 13B isn’t going to stress it out at all. Having said that, while I love rotary engines, my own first choice would probably be a GM LV3 or older 4.3L (the LV3 is far superior). Most people just go with a Gen 3, 4 or  5 GM small block and the appropriate adapters. Again, I’d pair either a V6 or a V8 with an AX15. You can usually find a good-running 4.3s or 5.3s on Craigslist for under $300. Dave Klingler Do you own a rotary Dave? Paul Lamar Dave, My transmission is the Borg-Warner T-98 four speed behind the 134f. At one time I had a 1990 S10 Blazer with the 4.3 and throttle body injection. It had a lot more room between the firewall and the hood and you still had to put the truck on jackstands to be able to remove the starter. The suspension had to drop out of the way to maneuver it out of the engine compartment. I was looking at the performance of the rotary because of the much smaller footprint than   a typical V6 installation. I am thinking a little out of the box and   not wanting a standard Buick dauntless in the jeep. Thanks Randy Kaneer The easy way is the Buick adapter and the Buick engine is a better power plant than the 4.3 Chev.  The 2.8/3.1 Chev engines should have been still born!  Problem with the Buick is that the best ones are the late model front wheel drive.  They only come with the metric bell housing pattern for front wheel drive use.  You stated you do not want to travel the road well traveled so go with the 13B or Renesis engine.  You will need a fair bit of gear but the transfer case has a low range which you may need to use a bit more.  The engine is smaller and lighter than the original and the extra power will never be enough to hurt the rest of the drive line.  You may need to talk to McLeod or Kennedy Engineering for the adapter.  For off road clean air is a must for a rotary engine.  Maybe think about a heavy duty style air filter with inner and outer elements from a 5.0L diesel engine. Dale Davies


Dale D.

Any part #'s for those 2 stage filters you mentioned?

Thx -Dan

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