Before:
Oxalic Acid + water = Crazy easy rust removal! No scrubbing @ all,
just mix and let soak!
Dan Gorsline.
Use with caution, Oxalic acid is very toxic. Andrew Campbell.
I'm in the process of cleaning/restoring a Logan 825 lathe, Enco
6x26 knee mill, and many assorted tooling pieces that had been
sitting in the previous owners garage. Somehow they "appeared" in my
shop back in January!
So far I'm using white vinegar and salt followed by water/baking
soda rinse followed by HOT water rinse. Non-toxic and safely dump
on my gravel driveway. Does a great job! In between the first two
steps some light fast brass wire brushing, or even wiping with a
towel, knocks off any rust that the vinegar hasn't taken off. I
usually start a batch of parts one weekend. While they don't need a
full week, life happens and I usually can't get back to them until
the next weekend. No parts have suffered as far as I can tell from
the extended soak.
I do have some metal prep and etch from Home Depot which is
essentially phosphoric acid. I have not had to resort to that yet,
but again it is safe and easy. It too would be followed by
water/baking soda rinse followed by HOT water rinse.
I have also purchased two carbon rods from McMaster to set up a
reverse electrolytic rust cleaning tank. Uses simple washing soda.
Again, safe and easy to use and dispose of. Just beware it will
generate hydrogen so open area away from ignition source is required.
If hydrogen embrittlement of a part is a concern then a 30 minute
bake in kitchen oven at 400°F will resolve the concern.
In all cases once rust has been removed by the one of the cleaners
above, the "cleaner neutralized" in the baking soda rinse, and the
part hot water rinsed/heat soaked/dried I follow up by coating
parts/surfaces to be bare metal with automatic transmission fluid.
I have wax available for applying to bare metal tooling surfaces as
well. As weather warms and I can get outside I'll be
priming/painting the surfaces that will not remain bare, none of
which I have started to clean/strip yet.
In all cases I wear rubber gloves, long sleeves, long pants, and
side shield safety glasses. I'll use splash proof goggles when
getting to the phosphoric acid or electrolytic rust removal.
I'm doing this cleaning/stripping/rust removal all in basement, one
small half gallon or gallon tub of parts at a time. So far no
complaints from my SO about odors so that is a plus as well.
I do have a 20 gallon parts washer with mineral spirits in the garage
that I can use to preclean any really dirty/gunked up parts, along
with the garden hose and common detergents for dust/dirt removal, and
a vacuum cleaner for dust/debris clean up (along with mouse nests and
droppings in drawers!).
Bradly Chubb
Perhaps this is unfounded, but OA is an acid and acids do bad things
to aluminum.
The auto boys leave their aluminum wheel hubs out of the OA when
getting rust off of other wheel stuff.
Rich Goldman
The OA didn't appear to damage the aluminum housings at all. It has a
slightly tarnished irregular look, but looks like that'll clean up
w/some polish. The had some impossible to remove crust before the
dip/soak, 100% gone now.
How much citric acid per gallon?
Dan Gorsline
Hello I don't often speak up but do read the messages with great
interest and have an RX 8 engine on my bench.I just wanted to say that I
have been rust cleaning steel and iron in Molasses over the last 12
months and couldn't be happier with the results. I drop the parts into a
7 to 1 water/molasses mix and give them a light brush every couple of
weeks and parts come out like new. The molasses doesn't attack the
metal so I can leave items in the soup for as long as I like. I strongly
recommend this method as the mix can just be poured on the grass when
finished with.
Mark Dillner
Wow that is a new one on me :-)
Paul Lamar
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