Subject: Wing-Ribs
From: paul lamar
Date: 9/17/2016, 10:40 AM
To: A10-Me-Earthlink


Paul

For those willing to build with epoxy, I think, the best would be to purchase directly made sheets to be glued on rib

Not the cheapest way, but by far the quickest giving a superb result.

https://www.rockwestcomposites.com/plates-panels-angles/carbon-fiber-plate/carbon-fiber-fabric-plate/plate-carbon-fiber-qiso-tri-axial-gloss-matte-48-x-120-x-0-050-inch-thick-options
pascal Virlouvet


Thanks Pascal

I have the wing rib problem decided. This is a Teflon mold .75 inches thick. The procedure is wet out the fabric and place it over the center piece hole. Press the rib form into the center mold. the flanges will be automatically formed. Put it in an oven set to 200 F.
Let cure.

Teflon is good to 500 F.

Each rib will be precisely the right size. Cut a hole for the spar and use  sort pieces of carbon fiber angle to bond and pop rivet the rib to the side of the spar.

This will be much faster then making each ribs out of foam and covering it by hand  with fabric glass or carbon.

Patent applied for :-)

Paul Lamar


 Very nice. It seems feasible to do the spar locater hole the
 same way at the same time. Cut an X in the hole and put plug in.

 Michael Nash

 A little problem with that. The dimensions of the spar will vary
 due to load on it. Top and bottom will have varying layers of uni.

 A list of spar hole dimensions should be mad for all the rib locations.

Here is a  stress diagram for a typical wing load more or less.

 Paul Lamar


Paul the point of the built up spar is you can vary the ply schedule to get the strength you want over the spar with the same outside diameter or even easier with the box spar. Then all your rib holes can be the same size for easy molding

Bill Jepson

Yes all the ribs are the same out side dimensions.

If made on a SIMPLE square tube male mold the thickness of the caps would step down starting at the root rib. You can start with an off the shelf cured square or rectangular carbon tube.

If all the holes in the ribs are the same size the spar then must be made in a female box mold.

Lets call it a square tube female mold. How do I lay up inside a 20 foot long square tube?
Not possible of course. Or at least extremely difficult.

OK say I made a rectangular male mold that was tapered in height.
The small vertical dimension was near the root rib where the caps are thickest.

Could be carved out of 20 ft long  blue foam I guess. Could also be made out of four ten foot long steel or aluminum bent up tapered channels and welded up.

Kind of tricky getting the right taper. Probably calculate  the proper number of ply schedules  and then adjust according to needed height.

The next problem is cutting the square holes in the rib plies before saturating and molding. That is not practical. Particularly in carbon.

Plan B. Makes two part ribs. One front one rear twice the rib lay up time.
That will also work.

Nay.

I would rather cut different size holes in the cured ribs :-)

Lots of options.

BTW the cost of solid Teflon is out of sight.

Garbage bag material can be used as a mold separator with a plywood mold.
The same stuff you use to saturate the fabric.
Add a couple more layers before you put in the plywood mold.
Room temperature or 150 F max in oven cure. Otherwise the garbage bag might melt :-) .
The actual plan form I intend to use is that of a C182. The 2/3 span center section is straight to accommodate the fowler flaps and the outer panels with the ailerons are tapered so those ribs are not all the same size. I am doing that for the known excellent handing and stall characteristics of the C182.

No point in reinventing the wheel and do all that R&D on handling.

Paul Lamar

Paul,
Love your ideas, but I would prefer a pusher, remember the Italian flying Boat, the radiators up front, max cooling.

Milo Burrows

How about both?:

Boyd Thompson

That is the beauty of the turbo rotary. It will put out as much power as TWO
aircraft engines at 650 HP  and weigh less than 200 pounds in the bargain with
out the gear box. Gear box is roughly 50 pounds.  That says a lot about the
shear robustness of the Mazda rotary. It is atomic bomb prof :-)

Watch and listen to this video.


Paul Lamar

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