$9500 ????
Wow that is a lot of money when one can get a brand new 2 rotor for
less than $4000. Most of the time way less than that for a perfectly
good used engine.
There are a bunch on ebay for $1500 to $2000.
Cut the oil pan in 3 parts with a band saw and weld the front and
back together :-)
Now you have a spare rotor housing and rotor.
The one rotors are easy to balance.
------------------------------------------------------------
I suspect most of the 900 people on here are afraid of working on a
rotary.
The hardest part about it is making some boxes to hold all the
seals.
Taking it apart is easy and can be done in an hour or so. It is a
simple matter of unscrewing 17 tension bolts.
The rotors have two sides. The side with the gear and the other side
I will call the oil side. Each rotor has three apex seals A, B and
C. These are an arbitrary assignment that is up to you to label them
with black marker pen when you take it apart.
Another way is use a center punch and put one two or three marks
near the apex seal to identify them.
Now buy 4 plastic boxes from Harbor Freight. Cost $3 each, Two boxes
for each rotor. One box for each side of the rotor.
Label them as shown before you take the engine apart..
Now when you put it back together after cleaning the rotor put the
seals back in the slots they came out of and the engine will run
exactly the same as it did before or better.
Put some red RTV 1/8th inch beads on the tension bolts to prevent
them from resonating. Some times if you run the engine at a constant
RPM for a long period of time a bolt might resonate and fail in the
root of the threads were it screws into the front housing.
Over hauling the engine is simple. If the side housings are marked
with wear ridges they can be re lapped by Mazdatrix. Generally they
are only several thousandth of an inch deep.
Then it is only a matter of putting in new seals.
If the rotor housings are severely scratched you will need a new
rotor housings. The engine will still run with a scratched rotor
housing but it will be slightly down on power. Less so at high RPM
as the engine goes into turbo jet mode. It will run at high RPM with
out any seals at all.
To keep your engine in good shape an air filter is extremely
important. The larger the air filter the lower the pressure drop
across it.
By all means get your self a junk engine and fool around with it.
There are 2.5 million out there.
Paul Lamar
Paul,
This question may have been asked, over and over, but what engine
stand is best for Mazda engine repair, and what tools are not normal
to a home repair person that are necessary to rebuilding a Mazda
Rotary Engine (metric etc.). Old saying their are never any stupid
questions, well I feel sort of-by-one.
George F. Curtis Jr.
Any old engine stand will work.
The worst thing to get off is the nut that holds the flywheel to the
E-shaft.
You would need a complete set of metric tools except for the fly
wheel nut. That is US.
Paul Lamar
Hi Paul
The link is to a collection of videos to rebuild a rotary. Very step by
step, bolt by bolt, for someone who has never done an engine I found it
very good. You do need to be able to speak Australian.
Complete Rotary 13B Rebuild - Engine (Part 3) - YouTube
<
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=InAejpftFO0
Stephen Burgess AU.
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