Subject: air cooling baffling for un symmetrical air cooled Mazda
From: paul lamar
Date: 11/1/2016, 7:54 PM
To: A10-Me-Earthlink


This is just the first guess. I'll try two openings next. One on the
left on the cowl  and one on the bottom of the cowl.

If the PSRU is integrated into the front cover that will act as a
huge heat sink. A few fins here and there might be advisable.


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Here it is with a 10 inch spinner. Two cooling baffles. One under
the spinner and one on the upper left from the pilots point of view.
Much better than one opening. These are 4 inch diameter openings.

This is going to make one heck of a very low cost  LSA engine.

I think we should sell it at the same price as a Rotax 912.


Paul Lamar



The heat sink material could be bought in full length, cut to the
length needed,  machined with bolt flanges on the side to allow the
heatsink to be bolted to the end plate edges. No fasteners in the
rotor housing. Just an option.

Steve Carlisle

You need a good clamping force on the heat sinks so studs welded to
the rotor housing are advisable.

With the exhaust and the intake mounted down we could go forward with
the intake and use a side draft Rotec/Eillison  carb under the front
of the engine.

Paul Lamar


Hi Paul Do the drawings depict a pusher or tractor configuration ?
How would you contemplate welding the studs to the housing ?
Electrical resistance but weld, Tig etc Regards

Bill McDonald

Tig, gas or braze :-) Anything will work. Just machine a small
clearance depression in the back of the  heat sink around the stud
hole to accommodate the weld area.

Paul Lamar

Hey Paul,

You don't want to use those weld studs.  They are way too inefficient.
Check out the pdf link below.

http://www.lapierre.name/rotary/AAA_Studs_And_Standards.pdf

 Mark LaPierre

Yes they do look better.

Paul Lamar

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