Crank case pressure is a result of end gap size in
the side seal to
corner seal fit, the corner seal to apex seal fit and
the corner
seal to corner seal bore fit.
I start side seal end clearance at zero. Replace at
.0025" Use the
old solid corner seals, not the ones
with the rubber plug. Use
the largest breather hose diameter possible.
Lynn E. Hanover
I agree with Lynn Hanover on controlling
Blow-By.... but I cut the
corner \seals for zero clearance a shown in the
attachment to avoid
locking interference with the side seals.
Barry Bordes
Not a problem for a dry sump system. A little blow by
helps.
I highly recommend it for any aircraft application as
one can use a better oil pump and up the oil pressure.
Particularly
with an aluminum front housing where the stock oil pump is
problematic.
Paul Lamar
Hey Barry B.
Could you show us the jig set-up you use to cut the
corner seals like that? Thx!
Dan Gorsline.
My Photobucket file blocks any attempts to
download... so here is a diagram. Made with 1" angle iron. A
corner
of a rotor, and a Dremel diamond disc.
Barry Bordes
Brilliant idea Barry. I consider this an important
improvement in the rotary sealing. Solves two problems. Hand
fitting the
side seals during overhaul and improving the side seal sealing.
This results in a small improvement in BSFC and power. In some cases
when the hand fitting is poorly done a larger improvement :-)
Felix Wankel would like it.
You should sell these.
You need a web site Barry.
Paul Lamar
Hey Barry B.
Thx for the drawing. I'm not fully clear at whats
happening..are you using one of the other corner seal holes as a
pivot
point for the jig? You need a website and YouTube vids. You
clearly know some good rotary tricks. Please try again to
send pics (or better yet, video!) of jig in action.
Thx again!
Dan Gorsline.
Barry is using an old rotor to hold the corner seal
while he slots it with a dremal tool. This allows a little
lee way in the length of the side seal and does a better job of
sealing the corner seal end.
Here is a quick 3D for Barry.
Paul Lamar
Nice drawing Paul,
But I cut the corner of the rotor off and attach it to two pieces
of angle.
The drawing should show the die grinder flipped and the diamond disk
moving in a 7.344" arc.
I first installed the mod in April of 08 and have over 30k miles on it.
Since this sectioning destroyed the rotor I then made it into a special
tool
(per Lynn Hanover's idea) for scribing side seal paths on the side
plates.
This too is a critical area for long side seal life.
Barry Bordes
It is rather surprising that Frank found a Pratt & Whitney Canada
patent that already does this.
We will see a Pratt&Whitney Canada Wankel any day now. They can use the
gear box off the PT6 only slightly modified.
Paul Lamar
Barry, Paul and all,
A top view would sure help me to fully visualize Just how you
constructed your jig just how much of the rotor tip to cut
off..........
Thanks,
Kelly troyer
The rotor corner is held on by three screws.
Use an apex seal to key the corner seal while grinding.
If you look closely at the paper in the box behind the tool there
are "notes to self".
The grinder is raised and lowered depending on which direction is
being ground.
Barry Bordes
Much better picture Barry. Thanks.
The notes where not clear. Do you have a scanner?
Paul Lamar
Simple but effective. Do you cut a uniform slot top to bottom or leave a
radius in there?
Seems like a good idea. Did I miss the part about you making your own
extended side
seals? To take advantage of this I would think you need a side seal that
is longer than
you can normally get from Mazda.
Bill Jepson
Silicon Nitride side seals, if and when they become available, will cut
the wear
on the cast iron side plates.
Paul Lamar
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