Crank case pressure is a result of end gap size in the side seal to
corner seal fit, the corner seal to apex seal fit and the corner
seal to corner seal bore fit.
I start side seal end clearance at zero. Replace at .0025" Use the
old solid corner seals, not the ones with the rubber plug. Use the
largest breather hose diameter possible.
Lynn E. Hanover
I agree with Lynn Hanover on controlling Blow-By.... but I cut the
corner \seals for zero clearance a shown in the attachment to avoid
locking interference with the side seals.
Barry Bordes
Not a problem for a dry sump system. A little blow by helps.
I highly recommend it for any aircraft application as one can use a
better oil pump and up the oil pressure. Particularly with an
aluminum front housing where the stock oil pump is problematic.
Paul Lamar
Hey Barry B.
Could you show us the jig set-up you use to cut the corner seals
like that? Thx!
Dan Gorsline.
My Photobucket file blocks any attempts to download... so here is a
diagram. Made with 1" angle iron. A corner of a rotor, and a
Dremel diamond disc.
Barry Bordes
Brilliant idea Barry. I consider this an important improvement in the
rotary sealing. Solves two problems. Hand fitting the side seals
during overhaul and improving the side seal sealing. This results in
a small improvement in BSFC and power. In some cases when the hand
fitting is poorly done a larger improvement :-) Felix Wankel would
like it.
You should sell these.
You need a web site Barry.
Paul Lamar
Hey Barry B.
Thx for the drawing. I'm not fully clear at whats happening..are you
using one of the other corner seal holes as a pivot point for the
jig? You need a website and YouTube vids. You clearly know some good
rotary tricks. Please try again to send pics (or better yet, video!)
of jig in action.
Thx again!
Dan Gorsline.
Barry is using an old rotor to hold the corner seal while he slots it
with a dremal tool. This allows a little lee way in the length of
the side seal and does a better job of sealing the corner seal end.
Here is a quick 3D for Barry.
Paul Lamar
Nice drawing Paul, But I cut the corner of the rotor off and attach
it to two pieces of angle. The drawing should show the die grinder
flipped and the diamond disk moving in a 7.344" arc. I first
installed the mod in April of 08 and have over 30k miles on it.
Since this sectioning destroyed the rotor I then made it into a
special tool (per Lynn Hanover's idea) for scribing side seal paths
on the side plates. This too is a critical area for long side seal
life.
Barry Bordes
It is rather surprising that Frank found a Pratt & Whitney Canada
patent that already does this.
We will see a Pratt&Whitney Canada Wankel any day now. They can use
the gear box off the PT6 only slightly modified.
Paul Lamar
Barry, Paul and all,
A top view would sure help me to fully visualize Just how you
constructed your jig just how much of the rotor tip to cut
off..........
Thanks, Kelly troyer
The rotor corner is held on by three screws. Use an apex seal to key
the corner seal while grinding. If you look closely at the paper in
the box behind the tool there are "notes to self". The grinder is
raised and lowered depending on which direction is being ground.
Barry Bordes
Much better picture Barry. Thanks.
The notes where not clear. Do you have a scanner?
Paul Lamar
Simple but effective. Do you cut a uniform slot top to bottom or
leave a radius in there? Seems like a good idea. Did I miss the part
about you making your own extended side seals? To take advantage of
this I would think you need a side seal that is longer than you can
normally get from Mazda.
Bill Jepson
Silicon Nitride side seals, if and when they become available, will
cut the wear on the cast iron side plates.
Paul Lamar
Atkins sells a .050" longer side seal. It was possibly used when Mazda
had double
side seals with the top one requiring extra length.
Barry Bordes
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