Brilliant idea Barry. I consider this an important improvement in the
rotary sealing. Solves two problems. Hand fitting the side seals
during overhaul and improving the side seal sealing. This results in
a small improvement in BSFC and power. In some cases when the hand
fitting is poorly done a larger improvement :-) Felix Wankel would
like it.
You should sell these.
You need a web site Barry.
Paul Lamar
Hey Barry B.
Thx for the drawing. I'm not fully clear at whats happening..are you
using one of the other corner seal holes as a pivot point for the
jig? You need a website and YouTube vids. You clearly know some good
rotary tricks. Please try again to send pics (or better yet, video!)
of jig in action.
Thx again!
Dan Gorsline.
Barry is using an old rotor to hold the corner seal while he slots it
with a dremal tool. This allows a little lee way in the length of
the side seal and does a better job of sealing the corner seal end.
Here is a quick 3D for Barry.
Paul Lamar
Nice drawing Paul, But I cut the corner of the rotor off and attach
it to two pieces of angle. The drawing should show the die grinder
flipped and the diamond disk moving in a 7.344" arc. I first
installed the mod in April of 08 and have over 30k miles on it.
Since this sectioning destroyed the rotor I then made it into a
special tool (per Lynn Hanover's idea) for scribing side seal paths
on the side plates. This too is a critical area for long side seal
life.
Barry Bordes
It is rather surprising that Frank found a Pratt & Whitney Canada
patent that already does this.
We will see a Pratt&Whitney Canada Wankel any day now. They can use
the gear box off the PT6 only slightly modified.
Paul Lamar
Barry, Paul and all,
A top view would sure help me to fully visualize Just how you
constructed your jig just how much of the rotor tip to cut
off..........
Thanks, Kelly troyer
The rotor corner is held on by three screws. Use an apex seal to key
the corner seal while grinding. If you look closely at the paper in
the box behind the tool there are "notes to self". The grinder is
raised and lowered depending on which direction is being ground.
Barry Bordes
Much better picture Barry. Thanks.
The notes where not clear. Do you have a scanner?
Paul Lamar
Simple but effective. Do you cut a uniform slot top to bottom or
leave a radius in there? Seems like a good idea. Did I miss the part
about you making your own extended side seals? To take advantage of
this I would think you need a side seal that is longer than you can
normally get from Mazda.
Bill Jepson
Silicon Nitride side seals, if and when they become available, will
cut the wear on the cast iron side plates.
Paul Lamar
Blow by is an issue in especially supercharged engines. I read a
bulletin regarding this in respect to diesel engines and
turbocharging. Higher cylinder pressures tend to allow more gasses to
find a way past any seals. Anything that reduces clearances on seals
helps.
Dale Davies
Yes Dale and of the 12 possibilities per rotor for side seals to
leak.... six are leaking.
Bill, Yes I leave the radius in there and shim the grinder up or down
to allow for leading or trailing sides.
Barry Bordes
I thought new replacement seals came longer and you needed to grind
them
to fit in a proper overhaul.
Paul Lamar
New side seals are longer than required and must be hand fitted to each
rotor face. So, you need parts trays or just sandwich baggies for each
side of each rotor face. Once you fit up a seal (between two new corner
seals) put it in the bag for that side of that rotor face.
So,three bags for each rotor face. Front rotor, front face, side 1.
front rotor front face, side 2. Front rotor, front face, side 3.
Then all again for the Rear face of the front rotor. I label the corner
seal the same as the side seal number and in the same bag. Once you
start of course you need two corner seals to fit up one side seal.
So, corner seal one and corner seal two will both be installed as well
as their springs and the side seal springs when fitting number one side
seal. Then when done with number one, Tape the pieces down with blue
painters tape and proceed to number two. Corner seal two is left in
place and you fit up side seal number 2 between corner seal 2 and corner
seal three.For side seal three, corner seal three is installed and you
fit between corner seal one and three.
You can just leave everything in place as you go and cover completed
work with blue painters tape. Once finished with a face put the seals
and springs in your marked bags.
Turn the rotor over and start again......Front rotor rear face:
I trim side seals close to the fit length with a little Black and Decker
tool room grinder.
Then square up the trimmed end in a jig made from a rotor. A Dremel
grind stone the exact shape and diameter of a corner seal, spinning in
the corner seal hole in my jig allows for a side seal end to trim up the
exact shape for required for a zero clearance fit. It all sounds very
busy so go through it with old seals a couple of times. It is easy and
obvious what needs to be done.
There needs to be nothing but bare metal in the bottom of all side seal
grooves.
There is an up and down side to side seal springs. Get it right.
There is a handedness to the oil scraper springs. Get it right. Mark
rotors with direction of rotation to help you remember. Once you do a
few you can put out a shingle....(Racing Rotaries).....Charge big
bucks........
Lynn E. Hanover
So Barry's idea can eliminate having to hand grind each side seal to
fit each side of each
rotor and it will improve the sealing in the bargain. Most important at
low RPM and low HP.
I think it is a major breakthrough in the overhaul process.
Paul Lamar
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