Paul

 Long time ago there was discussion here of comp. testing. I ask because my eng is very difficult to start and Race Beat insisted a comp. test was in order. A compression gauge with a check valve read 120psi on the rear and 85 on the front.  I had on hand an 80psi sensor so I plumbed it into the leading plug positions and cranked it over. Read the sensor output on the scope and got this;

2 pressure peaks of 71.1psi and 1 peak of 78.2psi at the front rotor. The rear rotor read higher than the sensor spec, 85.3psi, but had equal pulses and didn't overdrive the sensor output.   RPM was 226.
What is your take on these readings from a fresh rebuilt eng. with new rotor housings and seals?

Robert LeClercq

It should run. That is enough pressure. I suspect there is something else wrong. Put some auto transmission fluid
in the housing and let it sit overnight or for a day or too. Could be a stuck seal.

Check the timing for 22 degrees BTDC on all four plugs. Use fresh plugs. Front and back
rotor are 180 out.

Then get a six volt battery and wire it in seres with the 12 volt just for the starter.
Apply the 18 volts to the starter.  Limit the time it turns over as one can overheat
the starter motor.

This is a common scenario. They sit around for years and refuse to start.
One or more seals are stuck. Take the exhaust manifold off. Put the apex
seal in the exhaust port one at a time and check it with a screw driver to see if it moves
in and out under the influence of the apex seal spring.

If you have a pressure sensor and it puts out zero to five volts hook it
to a Maximte and you will get a wonderful compression recording.

Here is how to do that.

Paul Lamar


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