Subject: Muffler question
From: paul lamar
Date: 8/10/2017, 12:11 PM
To: A10-Me-Earthlink



        Hi Paul,

        I hope the  Oshkosh experience was very good.  The TTC project is
        very impressive.

        I’m gradually working through my radiator and oil cooler issues, and
        also building an exhaust header / tangential muffler.  I have a
        couple of questions on the latter.

        Please see the attached, although very crude, drawing.

        I am using the Racing Beat SS header, with short 2.5”x 1.75” OD .065
        304 SS tubes welded in place.  These will slip into 0.65” 1.88” tubes
        that will in turn be welded into a 6” 304 SS .065 cylinder/muffler.
        On the front, a 90 degree 1.88” tube is used to reduce the length of
        the 6” tube and significant weight.

        Due to space and other constraints, I need to bring the 3” tailpipe
        (also .065” 304 SS) out of the *rear* of the muffler and up. This
        gives me at least 3 options: 1. A straight 3” pipe welded to the rear
        of the muffler. 2. Squeeze the 3” tailpipe into a fish mouth (your
        previous drawings showed an area about 1/2 of that of the tailpipe).
        Or weld up a larger fish mouth. 3. Or, allow a short section of the
        3” tailpipe to remain inside of the muffler, which could be closed
        off and drilled with (e.g. 0.5”) holes to arrive at the same exit
        area as the fish mouth design.  I am wondering if this might be a
        more conventional muffler design and possibly allow better sound
        reduction?

        The prior concerns regarding the longevity of any metal living
        “inside” the muffler have been noted. However, with a Renesis engine
        having exhaust ports coming through the iron housings, as well as a
        cooling tube, both giving lower exhaust temps, do you think this is a
        concern for .065" 304?

        Thanks for your input,

        Scott Gettings

        You are on the leading edge Scott. Nothing like this has been built
        yet. The RX8 side port exhaust is  a little cooler so it should work
        all right. If it burns through opposite the exhaust ports you can
        weld on doubler patches.


        Paul Lamar


        Scott,  Suggest that you investigate 321 S/s as 304 is a very low
        grade Stainless.  Remember the exhaust temp will get up to 1800
        degrees which is rather warm.  Your design is similar to what I made
        and is still alive, but I have not the cooling tube.  Neil Unger

        Nice work Neil.

        Paul Lamar


        Typically 309 & 310 are used for high heat applications, 309 is good
        for 2000F and 310 2100F. Be sure to use the correct filler rod the
        material you are working with or you will be wasting your time using
        these more expensive grades. I would not call 304 a low grade steel,
        they all have their place in the appropriate application. Andrew
        Campbell.


        Paul, do you recommend having slip joints on the pipes just after
        the SS flange like Scott has, or is it ok to put these further
        downstream. Reason is ask is that I wanted to duct some cooling air
        around that area in flight and my concern is when going from high
        power straight  to a power off, high rate of descent leading to
        possible uneven temps around the exhaust due to cooling air
        distribution.

        I want to try and minimize the risk of possible cracking. With the
        space I have to duct cooling air I have to duct it from front to
        rear so the front (if sitting in the cockpit) exhaust header pipe
        gets the coolest shot and the rear header pipe gets the air warmed by
        the other 2 further in front.

        Any issues you can see using thick wall stainless tubing bends

        Alex Molteno

        The thicker the wall the better. There is a weight draw back of
        course, .109 wall 304 and it hardly shows any problems at all. One
        can buy 304 SS hand rails from
http://www.wagnercompanies.com/products-services/railing-systems-and-components/railing-components/elbows-and-wall-returns/ <http://www.wagnercompanies.com/products-services/railing-systems-and-components/railing-components/elbows-and-wall-returns/> <http://www.wagnercompanies.com/products-services/railing-systems-and-components/railing-components/elbows-and-wall-returns/ <http://www.wagnercompanies.com/products-services/railing-systems-and-components/railing-components/elbows-and-wall-returns/>>



        rfq@mailwagner.com <mailto:rfq@mailwagner.com> <mailto:rfq@mailwagner.com <mailto:rfq@mailwagner.com>> <mailto:rfq@mailwagner.com <mailto:rfq@mailwagner.com> <mailto:rfq@mailwagner.com <mailto:rfq@mailwagner.com>>

        You can then use the exhaust plumbing for motor mounts :-) Joking of
        course. It is only the first 18 inches of a p-port or so and by that
        time it has cooled. The slip joint can go there. Scott has a problem
        in that it is a pusher so he has way less room in the cowl to work
        with. If you can avoid it keep the muffler out of the cowl and use a
        coax muffler.

        Do you have an RX8 engine? Things are a lot easier and quieter as
        the exhaust is a couple hundred degrees F cooler with the side
        exhaust.

        Paul Lamar


        OK thanks Paul, good to know for the parts source to use tubing
        handrail. I've added a bit of extra weight already during the build
        so a few extra lbs of exhaust weight will be OK for extra insurance
        against cracking

        Alex Molteno



        Paul,

        While studying the best configuration for the tailpipe on a
        tangential muffler, I came across another idea that might further
        reduce the noise:

        If the combination of the Renesis exhaust being around 1600 degrees
        and a cooling tube might reasonably allow 304 metal to survive, do
        you think it might work to place the cooling tube INSIDE the tailpipe
        and let the exhaust augment the cooling tube air?  This would allow a
        lot more area for holes to be used in the “muffler” section of the
        tailpipe.  The inside of  the cooling tube only gets fresh air and
        does not mix with the exhaust  air until after exit.

        In the attached  drawing both the exhaust and cooling tube go
        straight back, but would ideally need to exit vertically or at least
        at a 45 degree upward angle.  I assume  to have any augmentation the
        cooling tube would  need to extend past the exhaust exit flow.

        If this is not still too far on the bleeding edge to make an educated
        guess, any suggestions are appreciated.

        Thanks

        Scott Gettings


        Hard to say with out spending a lot of money on instrumentation and
        data recording.

        Paul Lamar

        What is the purpose of the cooling tube?

        James Whitehurst

        Alex; With regard to your thoughts on using slip joints to prevent
        cracking, I need to relate about Detroit Diesel exhaust manifold
        issues on the Series 60 engines. Due to heat expansion on a long
        manifold they went to a three piece manifold. I do not know why for
        certain because they had used a one piece manifold on 6 71 and 12 71
        engines for years with no troubles.

        Anyway, the Series 60 had joints that one slipped inside the other.
        With time and repeated heat and cooling cycles the joints would gaul
        and start to leak exhaust. I proposed we try cutting a groove for a
        small piston ring seal on the outside of the parts that slipped
        inside the other. Worked real well to keep leaking down but the next
        time the manifold had to be removed as one piece as the piston rings
        wore grooves in the other part and they could not be separated. Using
        an antisieze compound helps the gauling but only for a short time
        until it is gone. Expansion joints allow for the expansion and
        contraction without leaks.

        Dale Davies

       Interesting. There are certainly lots of options for flexible joints. My 45-year-old Cessna has multiple slip joints in its exhaust system and they have never had a problem. Some of them have a clamp with an alignment button. I have had several failures in welds in areas that have expansion and contraction.

       Scott Gettings.


   One advantage with aircraft is a more constant exhaust temperature. You start and warm the engine. Then for about 5 minutes during takeoff and climbout you are at maximum power and exhaust temp. Then you ease out of the throttle a bit and set for ROP or LOP. The manifold cools a bit but you are still at 75% load so the exhaust is still hot. Then when you want to land you ease off the power to slow down and descend. The manifold cools slowly. Once on the ground and parked the manifold returns to ambient.


   With a heavy truck the manifold temp is changing continually. Stop at lights and it cools. Then accelerate to road speed probably under ful power. Manifold gets red hot. Cruise on the highway is only about 225 to 275HP depending on the load. When you come to a hill you are full power and red hot again. Then coming down the other side of the hill you injevt no fuel and Jacobs Engine Brake or exhaust retarder on. Exhaust drops to about 500°F. Continual expansion and contraction.


   Worse situation than AC but principals are the same. Best to engineer and design for worst case and prevent troubles later. You do not want to find a carbon monoxide situation in mid flight or get at least a major headache from it. If you loose coherent thought during mid flight bad things happen.

   Dale Davies



OK thanks Steve, noted on the seamless bends. Dale, very good points, I'll sit and think it out some more before I commit, I only want to build this exhaust once if possible, I can't weld got to pay someone. It's a Renesis so some relief there on exhaust temps Paul,

Alex Molteno


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