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Hey Paul,
Based on your book and our many discussions, it looks like the largest
water radiator I can practically fit in front of the engine will be a
pair (cross-counterflow) of about 20x16” radiators, using a 45 degree
mounting angle. The plumbing is feasible in this configuration.
The stock RX8 radiator is 17.5x26x2”, with a core area of 14.5x25 = 362
sq inches of frontal area. It is about 1.5” thick. Total cooling
volume is 543 cubic inches, but this is way too wide to fit.
The Neon radiators are 24.7x14.7x2”, with a core area of
23.5x11.7x1.5”. This is 274 sq inches and 411 cubic total volume. They
use a 1 3/8” fitting as does the RX8. However they are still too
wide. If I cut 4-5 inches off one end of the neon radiator to make if
fit, I would have about 20x11.7 frontal area of core. This is 234 sq
inches or 351 cubic inches. Two of these would total 468 sq inches and
700 cubic inches. The two of these together will be have more frontal
and volume area compared to the stock radiator.
My questions are:
Will reducing the radiator size (each will have a volume of 64% of
stock), plus having twice as long of a fluid path through 2 radiators,
possibly present a significant resistance to water flow?
I assume we are still looking at intake ducts of about 15% of the
frontal area, which in this case would be 35 square inches. This would
allow ducting for other functions (air intake, cooling tube and oil
radiators). I have a couple of decent options for the oil coolers, and
should be able to have larger areas and volume than stock.
Should we be using smaller main pulleys to under drive the water pump
and alternator due to a target RPM of about 7,000?
Thanks,
Scott Gettings
Your core thicknesses are off. The Neon is only about 1 inch thick or less.
Some modern rads are 5/8th inch thick. The old rule of 600 cubic inches
does not apply anymore.
The Kays and London wedge or even better S shaped diffusers are far more
important.
The Kechemen and Weber will work if the duct is long enough. It is now
more like 450 cubic
inches.
Which of these configurations are most like what you have in mind?
Mounting the rads back by the gear box is a good idea using the Kays &
London wedge
looks like the best. The ducts can be quite thin alongside the engine.
The prop can suck
some air out.
Paul Lamar
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