12 c
Good morning paul
i did work an other way to build a coupling by using the hub from the
E4D trans front ring gear hub, the other part have to be machined
from a
steel bar.
The flywheel need to be relocated adjacent to the counterweight and
this
new part
and give more space between the flywheel and front plate.
The steel block are hold by rivets and tig welded each side to hold the
compression load.
I am sending you some photos when i trimmed on the lathe with cutting
wheel and the design.
The rubber blocks are .750" thick.
It might be interesting to the one who want to build it and save some
machining by using the splines stell hub.
Just an idea Paul
That cut off grinder mounted on the tool post holder is a wonderful
idea. Good work.
Paul Lamar
Paul, and everyone,
Some years ago I mentioned that most modern motorcycles used a cushion
drive hub at the rear wheel. At the time everyone was saying they
wouldn't work, or other comments. SO now we are reinventing the wheel,
or at least the wheel hub! If you must incorporate a damper it would be
wise to look at the latest bikes. I have a brand new Aprilia Tuono that
uses a bolt on rear wheel shock damper. It could literally be bolted
onto one of the hubs we are using.
This isn't even unique as the latest Yamaha 1000cc R1s have a similar
arrangement. These designs are designed to live with the output of 200+
HP engines and the shock loads of a gearbox shifted by less than
perfect
humans. The sport type liter bikes are all approaching the 200 MPH mark
for top speeds and if my old calculations are correct I believe that
requires about 400 lbf at the sprocket. Work I'm doing on a reduction
drive planning for 400 HP at 7000 RPM works out to 300 lb/ft of torque.
My point is that these drives are available at motorcycle salvage shops
now. Some of the lightest versions look to be lighter than any of the
dampers the guys on the newsletter are building. Custom machining and
casting parts might be needed for a super turbo engine, but for
those of
us just looking for alternate power the rear wheel dampers might be
just
the ticket, without expensive machining. They come with their own
replaceable rubber, or silicone dampers. Some are harder and may be
urethane.
Bill Jepson
You are an engineer Bill.
Put your money where your mouth is and send us an IGES
of the Aprilla adapted to the e-shaft.
Here is my IGES to use as a start
Paul Lamar
Paul,
on your set up do you prefer to bolt the cup to the e-shaft or the
paddles? I believe either way will work, but I'm all for keeping similar
setups where possible.
Bill Jepson
The 3D i sent gives the mounting bolt circle on the rear counter weight.
My point is adapting motor cycle couplings are more trouble than they
are worth.
You have to do as much machining as making a new one.
If you do a 3D drawing for me you will find that out.
Do you use Solid Works or Rhino?
Paul Lamar
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