Subject: STEEL COUPLING WITH FRONT RING GEAR HUB 12 c
From: paul lamar
Date: 11/27/2017, 8:36 PM
To: A10-Me-Earthlink



   12 c

   Good morning paul


   i did work an other way to build a coupling by using the hub from the
   E4D trans front ring gear hub, the other part have to be machined
   from a
   steel bar.

   The flywheel need to be relocated adjacent to the counterweight and
   this
   new part

      and give more space between the flywheel and front plate.

   The steel block are hold by rivets and tig welded each side to hold the
   compression load.

   I am sending you some photos when i trimmed on the lathe with cutting
   wheel and the design.

   The rubber blocks are .750" thick.

   It might be interesting to the one who want to build it and save some
   machining by using the splines stell hub.

   Just an idea Paul

   That cut off grinder mounted on the tool post holder is a wonderful
   idea. Good work.
   Paul Lamar

   Paul, and everyone,
   Some years ago I mentioned that most modern motorcycles used a cushion
   drive hub at the rear wheel. At the time everyone was saying they
   wouldn't work, or other comments. SO now we are reinventing the wheel,
   or at least the wheel hub! If you must incorporate a damper it would be
   wise to look at the latest bikes. I have a brand new Aprilia Tuono that
   uses a bolt on rear wheel shock damper. It could literally be bolted
   onto one of the hubs we are using.


   This isn't even unique as the latest Yamaha 1000cc R1s have a similar
   arrangement. These designs are designed to live with the output of 200+
   HP engines and the shock loads of a gearbox shifted by less than perfect
   humans. The sport type liter bikes are all approaching the 200 MPH mark
   for top speeds and if my old calculations are correct I believe that
   requires about 400 lbf at the sprocket. Work I'm doing on a reduction
   drive planning for 400 HP at 7000 RPM works out to 300 lb/ft of torque.


   My point is that these drives are available at motorcycle salvage shops
   now. Some of the lightest versions look to be lighter than any of the
   dampers the guys on the newsletter are building. Custom machining and
   casting parts might be needed for a super turbo engine, but for those of
   us just looking for alternate power the rear wheel dampers might be just
   the ticket, without expensive machining. They come with their own
   replaceable rubber, or silicone dampers. Some are harder and may be
   urethane.
   Bill Jepson


   You are an engineer Bill.
   Put your money where your mouth is and send us an IGES
   of the Aprilla adapted to the e-shaft.

   Here is my IGES to use as a start

   Paul Lamar


   Paul,

on your set up do you prefer to bolt the cup to the e-shaft or the paddles? I believe either way will work, but I'm all for keeping similar setups where possible.
Bill Jepson

The 3D i sent gives the mounting bolt circle on the rear counter weight.
My point is adapting motor cycle couplings  are more trouble than they are worth.
You have to do as much machining as making a new one.
If you do a 3D drawing for me you will find that out.
Do you use Solid Works or Rhino?

Paul Lamar

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