12


Paul

You forget about the bolting attachment of the Ford drum plate to to
your design which is additional weight , to compare with my design is
close to your design weight.

I will send you the design later.


Jean Proudhomme

I don't use that Ford part. I fasten the sun gear to the hollow  1.5
inch input
shaft with extended point set screws. They work like splines but
are much lower cost.  Tracy used a pin to fasten the sun gear to a one
inch shaft. That failed on Dave Leonard's turbo. It was also welded.

I think you where on the News Letter when that happened.

This is much stronger.


Here it is complete with sun gear.

Paul Lamar

Paul,
It look very good design, i am
wondering if you use the existing steel space for your sun gear shaft
hole alignment, with my design you do not need to use it , the flywheel
is straight adjacent to the counterweight and
 the damper block, it look like a small difference in weight between the
 spacer and the ford drum.


Sun gear attached and shaft with those set screw are the best
but they have to be very secure.




There is a hole in the end of the e-shaft for the pilot bearing.

The rubber bushings will hold the set screws in the coupling block.

Another way is to insert a thin aluminum sleeve in each large hole.

Locktite would also work There are twelve so if one comes loose no big

deal

Paul Lamar


Do you intend to make with steel it look flimsy to me with thin walls

JEAN PRUDHOMME

The blue part is aluminum.
I beefed it up and made the rubber bushings slightly smaller in diameter.

A lot of those Ford parts are powdered metal and they cannot be tig welded.
I am thinking of making the new planet carrier in steel which is now powdered
metal from Ford. (Made in China) The only practical way of connecting it to the prop shaft is tig
welding.

BTW I may be in Florida just after New Years and I will stop in if you don't
mind.

Paul Lamar

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