12 d
Paul
I am sending a new design for a damper proposal with the Ford
transmission drum with a minimum machining, the aluminum hub part can
be water pressure cutting device for all straight open holes and the
rest with minimum machining with a small lathe.
I attached some drawings in perspective and parts list.
JEAN PRUDHOMME
How is this fastened to the Mazda counter weight?
Paul Lamar
The same bolt holes pattern as the original steel part with conter bore
to hide the head screws
I located
those cap screws locations to screw to the counter weight, it can be
screw straight to the flywheel and the counter weight or reuse the
existing steel part as original spacer and flywheel.
Photo showing damper assembly with socket head screw to attache to the
flywheel and the mazda counter weight
JEAN PRUDHOMME
Jean, I like this proposal, but I am still not clear on the complete
part arrangement. Can you show or describe all parts starting from the
aft side housing to the prop reduction drive?
james whitehurst
I think what Jean has in mind is this. Absolutely the simplest coupling
so far that is likely
to work. Brilliant lite weight design.
Basically you obtain longer socket head metric bolts that hold the flex
plate on the counter
weight and surround them with small spacer's. This forms six strong studs.
The actual coupling has larger holes and silicone rubber is used to fill
the gaps.
It is similar to Andrews CampBell's design. Almost identical.
Green is steel. Bolts are black and aluminum is blue in this 3D.
The PSRU input shaft is 1.5 inch in diameter instead of one inch that
Tracy used.
Extended point set screws can be used to connect the PSRU input shaft
with the
actual coupling.
There must be a pilot fitting to fit in the end of the e-shaft to center
the PSRU
input shaft. Not shown yet in this dwg.
Paul Lamar
Paul
It does not need pilot guide the fact as the back of the drum parts has
a round hub who fit inside on the damper housing part, the damper
housing housing have the same counterbore who perfect fit with the Mazda
counter weight, which is different as the aluminum plate dumper who had
lateral movement
JEAN PRUDHOMME
I don't follow you Jean. Send me a dwg.
Here are your dwgs you sent.
It is too complicate doing it that way.
I am using only six bolts and not twelve.
Far fewer parts. Same basic idea. Toroid rubber bushings.
Paul Lamar
I did received the aluminum part from the pressure water cutting , i did
pay extra for a better precision and i find out it need some machining
to correct it.
If you get it by pressure water cutting make sure your holes are under
size and you will need to finish on lathe and pres-drill.
I did order the silicone sleeves medium hard 1.250"dia and ,625"od steel
tubing for bushing.
As soon i get it i will drill the ford drum plate.
To lower the weight i wont use the flywheel spacer and bolted the
flywheel straight on the counterweight i know i do have to make
modification for the stater.
JEAN PRUDHOMME
That looks like it will work. I think it is larger and heavier than
necessary however. It is about
the same OD we use on the 650 HP time to climb engine. Of course you might
be planning on that much HP and need it :-)
I know you want to use that Ford female spline plate but you could
machine it down around
the outside of the spline and reduce that diameter.
Image 2234
Then center the big rubber bushing holes on the mounting screw bolt
circle diameter.
If your worried the spline female part might break build a static test
rig and check it for
200 foot pounds.
Paul Lamar
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