Subject: RD1C installation guide 12 h
From: paul lamar
Date: 12/15/2017, 3:53 PM
To: A10-Me-Earthlink



 12 h


 Does anyone have a rd1c installation guide or advice. I want to
 check before bolting the psru back up for engine runs. Wasn't there a
 viton seal recommended to seal the bearing/thrust washer stack
 against the motor mount plate?    Alex Molteno Yes but I recommend
 Teflon.   Paul Lamar


 I will see if I can dig up my RD 1C manual and email it to you
 directly.   Scott Gettings.

 Alex, The teflon disc goes between the input gear and the inner
 surface of the planetry reduction to stop metal to metal when you
 pull power and the input shaft can be drug forwards.  The prop shaft
 goes through the center of the teflon disc. Bearings go against the
 plate, and make sure you have a low pressure seal in the plate. A low
 pressure seal has one lip only, a high pressure, two or double lip.
 Little pressure in the housing so the low pressure seal does a much
 better job of sealing as is more flexible.

 Neil Unger.

 Ok thanks Neil,

 Alex Molteno


 Hi Neil, do you have an illustration or picture to show the location
  of the discs on your drive. My engine has run time on a stand for
 about an hour when it belonged to Milo Burroughs and there is a
 slight bit of wear on Tracys motor mount plate at the rear of the
 drive. I initially figured thats what you were talking about when you
 said it needs the teflon disc, to stop any metal on metal rubbing
 when the shaft is not being pulled forward, for instance when the
 prop is driving the engine on steep descent,

 but as i understand it, you recommend to put another disc at the
 opposite end too for when power is applied and the shaft is pulled
 forward to metal on metal contact

 So 2 discs needed then. Do you remember what thickness you are using
  for the forward disc, so it doesn't tear it up?

 Alex Molteno

 That is kind of surprising as those are thrust roller bearings. They
 should not need teflon.

 Paul Lamar Alex,
                             There is one nylon or teflon disc only, not two.  The Nylon disc which tracy called the "snubber" bearing goes between the front face of the gear on the input shaft and the inner face of the planetry.  The prop shaft comes through the front of the planetry
(splined) and then through the "snubber" disc with the polished end of the prop shaft then finishing up inside the center of the input shaft which has a brass bush pressed into it. THis makes both the prop shaft and the input shaft almost rigid. The bearing stack which consists of, 2 thick thrust washers which are each end of the bearing stack, a pin roller thrust bearing (2 of) fits inwards of each thick washer,(one each
end) with a thin thrust washer going in the middle of the 2 pin roller bearings. (middle of stack)  The bearing stack has a thick thrust
washer-- a pin roller bearing -- the thin center thrust washer -- another pin roller bearing and then another thick thrust washer.


    The bearing stack slides onto the back of the input shaft.  The bearing stack sits directly onto the Tracy plate and  the rear thick washer should not turn at all.  Each thick thrust washer at each end of the bearing stack should not turn.  The rear washer is stationery on the mounting plate and the front washer turns with the input shaft. The turning is done by the 2 pin rollers and thin intermediate thrust washer only.  You say there is wear on the mounting plate--- Make sure that the rear most thick washer is not binding on the input shaft.  It must be free to turn without binding on the input shaft under any circumstances.


    Clearance is checked by standing the PSRU on the prop shaft vertically, removed from the mounting plate.  It may be best to remove the thick rubber O ring that holds the ring gear of the planetry in place while you do this as the 2 halves of the PSRU must be in full contact with each other to not give a wrong clearance reading. 2 clamps will do the same thing just so long as there is nil gap between the 2 halves.


Remove the input shaft and bearing stack.  Drop the nylon snubber washer over the prop shaft that protrudes from the planetry assembly.  Then drop the input shaft down so that the protruding prop shaft is inserted inside the gear (brass bush inside)  and resting firmly on the nylon "snubber" washer.  (this is the one and only nylon washer). Place the bearing stack over the end of the input shaft and they should just clear a straight edge put across the PSRU housing that is to bolt onto the mounting plate.


 I work on a min of 5 thou, but is
not that critical, just so long as there is clearance. If the bearing stack is proud of the housing, the nylon washer is to be thinned down, or replaced with a thinner one until the bearing stack is clear of the afore mentioned straight edge.  (I use a steel ruler as it is not all that critical, just has to clear)


  Under load the input shaft rests on the bearing stack due to the helical cut of the gears, (rearward force).  Pull the power so that the prop now drives the PSRU and the gears (helical) will pull the input shaft forwards.  The nylon snubber washer takes up any forward thrust pressure preventing metal to metal contact.
Probably clear as mud??  Ask me for clarification where necessary.
Neil Unger

Hi Neil,
   How exactly are you stopping the outer planet ring from turning. Also what do you think the torque load is that makes the ring gear want to rotate, is it big or reasonably small.
   Cheers Chris Hoskins in NZ

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